While reading the March/April 2008 issue of Pointing Dog Journal we came
across an article called "How to Pick a Hunting Puppy" we would like to share it with you.
How to Pick a Hunting Puppy
by J.D. Nelson
From 1970 to 1995 the average marriage in the
United States lasted about seven years. The average hunting dog lives to be 12-14 years old. So maybe we should all put a
little more effort into choosing our hunting partners.
Since I've always lived in Nebraska, advertised
by the Nebraska Game Commission as the "Mixed-Bag Capital of the United States", I've enjoyed breeding, training,
and - best of all- hunting a number of different breeds of dogs. In addition, I've had the pleasure of hunting in more
than 20 other states and quite a few foreign countries. The wonderful opportunity to hunt several species of birds in so many
places doesn't make me an expert on anything, but it has provided me with a wealth of experience on what canine traits
insure success with certain wild-bird species. How do I pick a puppy? I can assure you I put a lot more effort into this fun
task now than I did 30 years ago.
For example, I think the best place to buy a quail puppy
is where dogs hunt wild quail, a pheasant puppy from where they hunt wild pheasant, grouse from where
they hunt wild grouse, and so on. The two most important factors in picking the right puppy are the sire and
the dam. If you can watch the parents of the litter hunt the birds you want to hunt, in the over you hunt, and they do a good
job, you pretty much can't go wrong.
In most cases this isn't very practical. There may
not be a local breeder for the type of puppy you are looking for, and litters don't always appear when you've decided
the time is right for a new hunter/bootlace-chewing prospect at your house. So if you are like most of us and pick a pup over
the Internet, phone, PJD, or newspaper, I would like to offer the following guideline in picking foot-hunting
puppy.
After introducing yourself to the long-distance breeder, ask him what
he does with his dogs. Sounds like a dumb question, but it is the most important question you are going to ask. If you are
a hunter, you want a new puppy that comes from a hunting dogs. Be very specific when asking what the breeder does with his
dogs. Does he field trial, shoot-to-retrieve, show dogs in the conformation ring, or does he actually take his dogs to the
field and hunt them on birds? And if so, wild or released birds?
Then, after you have
weeded our all but the hunting parents, ask more specific questions: How many days did the breeder hunt the parents last year?
Did he shoot any birds over the parents? What kind of cover does he hunt in? Do the parents point naturally? Do the parents
show any natural tendencies to retrieve? Does he use an e-collar on his dogs? One of my favorite questions is, "If you
turn your dog loose with no e-collar, after bathroom duties, sniffing the other hunters and dogs, loosening up with an introductory
run-off, at what range do the parents settle into after the first fifteen minutes afield?"
If I'm trying to buy a grouse/woodcock dog, I always ask if the parents are always in bell range, and how much of the
time can you actually see them. If I'm considering a pheasant dog, I want to know if the parents hunt without direction
and handling. A pheasant dog that needs a lot of verbal or whistle guidance isn't going to point many pheasants over the
course of a season. When looking for a future quail dog, I want to know if the parents are natural backers.
And regardless of what breed of
dog I'm hunting or what species of bird, I want to know about the retrieving abilities of the parents. There is no place in the field in the 21st century for a hunting dog that will not help you find a downed
bird. Retrieving to hand is a luxury enjoyed by a few luck hunters, but I'll settle for a dog that points dead, pounces
on a cripple, and holds it down, or just stands beside the downed bird. Just help me find the bird that I can't smell
or see.
Once you've found the hunting breeder with genuine hunting parents, you
can negotiate price, shipping, guarantee, and eventually the puppy in the litter most suitable for you.